This is a 1.2 - 12 V, max 1A power supply with a low voltage indicator LED. The indicator part incluedes three diodes and one LED. For example you are charging a battery, you can observe the charge status at that moment. Another advantage of this circuit, when the drawn current exceeds 1A (practically 0.85A), the current protector in LM317 intervens and LED indicator warns you about the very low output voltage. Be careful while choosing the transformer. Most of the products are specified as 10VA but their outputs are not as said. Another good property of this circuit is the mains noise does not pass to the DC part.

Power supply used for professional FM broadcasting transmitter.

Voltage range: 0.7 - 24V Current limiting range: 50mA - 2A A Variable DC Power Supply is one of the most useful tools on the electronics hobbyist's workbench. This circuit is not an absolute novelty, but it is simple, reliable, "rugged" and short-proof, featuring variable voltage up to 24V and variable current limiting up to 2A. Well suited to supply the circuits shown in this website. You can adapt it to your own requirements as explained in the notes below.

The main balanced power supply is constructed with the usual suspects, 7815 (pos 15 volt regulator) and 7915 (neg 15 volt regulator). These are fed from rectified AC via a PCB mount 6VA power transformer. I have use four diodes in a bridge rectifier configuration rather than a dedicated bridge rectifier as people have had trouble finding P04 and W04 rectifiers and it allows you to get esoteric with low noise switching diodes. I used the simple and easy to get IN4004 but some at Tech Talk have suggested more exotic devices.

I frequently have a need for a variable supply when testing homebrew circuits, and the triple power supply is just what I need on the bench. With an amp out at 13.5 V, it will easily handle that QRP full-gallon. It even has 6 and 12 V AC available, for those rare filament-power circuits.

As is commonly the case, this supply was born of necessity. There is absolutely nothing special about the circuit, except that as shown, it is quite capable of up to 20 Amps intermittently or 10A continuous. Simply use a bigger transformer, bridge rectifier and more capacitors and output transistors to get more current. The basic circuit should be good for up to 100A or so, using a 5A TO3 regulator IC, but it can obviously be increased further (if you really do need a 500A supply!).

Many times we needed one relatively powerful supply in order to we supply various appliances with + 13.8V, as transceivers CB, charge lead-acid batteries, etc. The circuit it uses known completed that is capable gives in the his exit, current in continuous operation 5A and 12A peak current. It does not only need few external component. Exist a point which it will be supposed you are careful in the drawing and in board. Board has been drawn so as to exist the possibility of using also two case types completing. In the first case the IC1 in case TO-220 is placed above in pcb, in second with case TO-3, it can it�s placed above in heatsink and terminal his they are connected in the connector G3, in this case, certain we leave empty the place of IC1 above in pcb.

This is a bench power supply with regulated DC outputs -12V, -15V, +5V, +12V, +15V, and variable and one +35VDC unregulated output. I based this bench supply almost exclusively upon Andrew Kilpatrick's design. I did add a few things, but it's essentially the same and I am not writing here to claim any shred of originality. I spent somewhere around 80$ US on the project (including the GIANT transformer), which isn't bad compared with commercial supplies boasting similar features. Please note that I DID find a few minor errors in Kilpatrick's schematic, which have been fixed here. For details, read Kilpatrick's original page.

This is a LM338 based power supply which is not complicated and easy to build. I am using the supply for a long time, have no problem yet. Only current adjust is missing but I overcome this situation by using an LCD panel ampermeter. There is no PCB for the circuit. I took a 3x16 copper plate and strip the unused areas by a knife. If you want you can use analog meters instead of LCD panels.

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